ROBERT WHITLEY "WINE FINDS"

Wines are rated on the 100-point scale. Obviously the higher the rating and the lower the price the greater the value. Wines selected for review are chosen because they represent outstanding quality or value, or because they should be avoided. Every attempt is made to cover a broad range of consumer interests, from simple but well-made quaffing wines to rare gems for the serious wine cellar.

WINE FINDS - DECEMBER, 2006: Pommery Brut Champagne, France ($35) – The current release of this popular non-vintage brut Champagne is the most satisfying in recent memory, delivering a rich, creamy texture, excellent power and length, notes of lemon zest and toasted brioche and, as always with Pommery, superb finesse and complexity. Though sublime as an aperitif, the Pommery brut has the stuffing to take on a key role at the dinner table. Rating: 91 Joseph Phelps 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($30) – Sauvignon blanc style is all over the map in various corners of the wine globe, but Napa Valley vintners seem to have settled upon the riper, slightly oily model that can be found in the finest Bordeaux blanc. Phelps’ ’05 rendition is a splendid example of the genre, starting with a slightly floral, white peach nose and a creamy palate. This wine doesn’t show too much influence from oak, and its fruit really begins to shine and the palate lengthens with a bit of aeration. Rating: 90 Gainey 2005 Riesling, Santa Ynez Valley ($13) – For the money Gainey’s may well be the best California Riesling going. It’s made in an ever-so-slightly off-dry style that is well balanced and oh-so-quaffable, perfect for holiday parties when savory or spicy appetizers might be served. There is generous fruit on the nose, a juicy palate and a slight hint of minerality. Rating: 88 Joseph Phelps 2003 ‘Insignia’, Napa Valley ($165) – Having had the chance to taste several of the Napa Valley's cult cabernets over the past six months, I still believe there is no better red wine produced in the United States than Insignia, the red Bordeaux blend from Joseph Phelps. The '03 Insignia is the 30th vintage of this Napa Valley icon, and it just keeps getting better. The '02 was highly acclaimed (I rated it 97 points) and deserved every accolade it received. But I am convinced the '03 will be a better wine over time. This latest Insignia release is firmer than the '02 at this stage and doesn't exhibit the overtly succulent, sweet fruit that made the '02 such a universal crowd-pleaser. The nose is beautifully scented with hints of spice, vanilla and black currants, and on the palate it is obvious this is a brooding giant of a wine that isn't even beginning to give everything it has. Rating: 98 Gary Farrell 2004 ‘Rochioli Vineyard’ Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($60) – The Rochioli vineyard is arguably California's finest for Pinot Noir. It is certainly the most famous. Nobody, not even Williams Selyem, has surpassed Gary Farrell's record of stunning wines from the Rochioli vineyard over the past 20 years. But there is a significant stylistic change in this vintage that only time will validate, or not. The '04 Gary Farrell 'Rochioli' is a massive, powerful Pinot in the manner of a big Richebourg or Chambertin Clos de Beze. There is less of the silky Farrell finesse, with more weight, darker fruits and slightly firmer tannins than I remember from previous vintages. It's a mere baby now, and needs a good seven to 10 years to come into its own. But I'm betting on this blockbuster to turn out to be one of Farrell's finest. Rating: 96 Beaulieu Vineyards 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ‘Georges de Latour’, Napa Valley ($95) – It's good to see one of the Napa Valley's iconic Cabernet Sauvignons back on track after a somewhat dull vintage. While the '02 Georges de Latour lacked charm and was all rough edges, the '03 is a rich, full-bodied, suppple example of good old Napa Valley Cab, showing ample dark fruits, hints of spice and dried herbs and a pleasingly fleshy finish that the '02 might never achieve. Rating: 94 Gary Farrell 2004 ‘Starr Ridge Vineyard’ Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($50) – As he has with the splendid Rochioli Vineyard Pinot from this vintage, winemaker Gary Farrell has achieved exceptional ripeness, extraction and palate weight without producing one of those faddishly sweet Pinots that are now all the rage. As a result the alcohol comes in a bit high (14.4 percent) but you hardly notice the heat because of the beautiful balance between the acid, the wood and the massive dark fruit. This wine won't begin to peak for at least another three to five years, perhaps even longer. Rating: 94 Veramonte 2006 Sauvignon Blanc Reserva ($10) – There well may not be a better Sauvignon for the price. Veramonte has excelled with this grape variety since the winery opened its doors more than a decade ago, and the style and quality have been consistent. The '03 delivers aromas of fresh citrus and melon, the most subtle hint of aromatic herbs, and a lively mouthfeel. Rating: 88 Rutz 2004 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($40) – Among California Pinot Noirs Rutz' Dutton Ranch certainly must be one of the most massive and intense. This is a brooding Pinot, with earthy forest floor and spice aromas that only begin to emerge after some time in the glass. The tannins are long and sweet, the backbone of a wine that shows black cherry and dark fruit aromas. If you're looking for a Pinot Noir to give you the power and depth of a Burgundian grand cru, look no further. And it's a fraction of the price. Rating: 94 Tir Na N’od 2004 “Old Vines” Grenache, Australia ($25) – Vintner/importer John Larchet named this wine after an Irish legend. In Gaelic it means "Land of the Youth" and it is an apt description of this precocious, youthful wine made, ironically Larchet observes, from "old" vines. The beauty of an "old vine" grenache is the vibrancy and sweetness of its fruit. This one's a bomb. Loaded with succulent red and black fruit aromas, a rich, layered palate and spice accents that complement the hedonistic voluptuousness of this wine. It's also nicely balanced for such a rich wine (15.5 percent alcohol). Rating: 94 Sonoma-Cutrer 2005 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($25) – This is the new Chardonnay Sonoma-Cutrer will make available to the retail trade for the first time, and it is very promising. Though not in the same league with the winery's sensational Les Pierres Vineyard Chardonnay (but then, what is?) the Sonoma Coast Chard possesses many of the attributes that have made Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnays so appealing over the past quarter century. It is well balanced and tight in its youth, with a firm backbone beneath layers of ripe fruit. Add a pinch of the trademark Sonoma-Cutrer spiceiness and you've got an oustanding bottle of California Chardonnay at a fairly reasonable price. Rating: 90 Blackbilly 2004 Shiraz, Australia ($19) – If you've shied away from Australian Shriaz because massive, big shouldered red wines are not your cup of tea (or glass of wine) you might want to give the Blackbilly a look. Proprietor Nick Haselgrove comes from a longtime farming family that planted some of the first vines in McLaren Vale in the mid-1800s. His peppery Shiraz has an appealing leaness and surprising minerality considering the conventional wisdom that holds that riper fruit is better fruit. There is very little oak influence in this wine due to the use of older barrels, which give the wine the air it needs to develop without the spicy and smoky flavors imparted by new oak. This, I believe, is a concession to the delicacy of the fruit. Blackbilly should evolve nicely over the next several years, and it's a particularly good food wine. Rating: 90 Eponymous 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($58) – At this time the '03 doesn't appear to have the delicate combination of power and finesse that marked previous vintages. Aromas of cassis, black cherry and anise are very attractive, and on the palate the entry is smooth and voluptuous, but a bit short. The palate should lengthen with time, so I'd give this vintage of Eponymous anonther year or two in the cellar before expected to see its best. Rating: 90 Elderton 2004 Shiraz , Australia ($30) – There is a tendency to forget about the basic Elderton Shiraz and focus only on the extraordinary Elderton Command Shiraz. That's a mistake of the highest order, for the primary Elderton Shiraz is an exceptional wine in its own right and less than half the price of the Command Shiraz. The '04 vintage is excellent, showing ripe blackcurrant and plum fruit, a lovely viscous texture and hints of mocha and anise. Rating: 90 King Estate 2005 Pinot Gris, Oregon ($15) – This is a remarkably consistent wine considering how much of it (64,000 cases) is made. King Estate Pinot Gris is a lovely cross between the richness and weight of an Alsace Pinot Gris and the delicacy and freshness of an Italian Pinot Grigio (same grape!). This is a fruit driven wine, showing luscious apple, pear and tropical fruit notes, with absolutely no oak influence. Rating: 89 Blackbilly 2005 Pinot Gris, Australia ($15) – Because Pinot Gris is made in a number of styles, from dry to off-dry to sweet, it's sometimes difficult to know what you're getting when you pick up a bottle. Blackbilly is bone dry, expressive on the nose but crisp and steely on the palate, with aromas and flavors of white flower and lime, with excellent minerality. This wine is meant to be consumed young, either as an aperitif or with steamed clams or raw oysters. Rating: 89 Tangent 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Edna Valley ($13) – Winemaker Christian Roguenant (Baileyana) has a deft hand with Sauvignon Blanc, which he produces more in the rounded, floral style of Bordeaux than the pungent, tangy style of New Zealand. Tangent's flavors and aromas tend more toward citrus and melon notes than the stone fruits found in Napa Valley's Bordeaux-style Sauvignons, and the lack of oak influence enables the fruit to shine. The '05 is fresh and crisp and comes with a convenient screwcap closure. Rating: 88 Calera 2002 Mills Vineyard Pinot Noir, Mt. Harlan ($43) – Jensen ardently believes his Mt. Harlan Pinots require patience to be fully appreciated, which is why he holds back release of the Calera reds until they've evolved in the bottle after several years of aging. This '02 Mills is illuminating. It is quite less austere than the tight '03 Mills I reviewed several months ago. Calera's '02 Mills Vineyard Pinot has rounded out and fleshed out beautifully, showing gorgeous black cherry, dark raspberry fruit, earthy notes of forest floor and root spices, with a remarkably long, lingering finish. Rating: 92 William Hill 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($26) – I can still remember those magazine ads where Bill Hill (who no longer owns the winery) compared his William Hill Cabs to high-class Bordeaux. The comparison was valid way back when, but then this winery went through an uneven patch that tarnished its reputation and left it well behind the rest of the Napa crowd that capitalized on the enthusiasm for Napa Valley Cabernet. William Hill has invested quite a bit in improved viticulture in recent years, however, and the results are showing up in the bottle. This is a luscious, supple Napa Valley Cab at a sinfully decent price! Rating: 91 Beringer 2004 Dry Riesling, Napa Valley ($16) – Winemaker Laurie Hook, who replaced the legendary Ed Sbragia as Beringer's chief winemaker a few years back, has a deft touch with white wines, where she shows a great affinity for freshness and liveliness. This is no more readily apparent than in the Beringer 2004 Dry Riesling, which is as crisp, refreshing and complex as any dry Riesling being made in the Western United States. The combination of floral notes, aromas of stone fruit, spice and nectarine are remarkable especially for a California Riesling! The intense minerality and bracing acidity of the world's finest dry Rieslings may be missing, but I figure that's only a matter of time as long as Hook remains at the helm at Beringer. Rating: 90 Ferrari-Carano 2003 Merlot, Sonoma County ($25) – If you believe, as I do, that Ferrari-Carano's Cabernet is underrated, you must know the Merlot gets little, if any, of the respect it deserves. Yet Ferrari-Carano's Merlot has everything red-wine lovers who flocked to this grape variety in the last decade loved: Bright plum and red berry fruit aromas; sweet, supple tannins; and a smooth, silky finish. It's irresistible! Rating: 90 Sanford 2005 Vin Gris, Santa Barbara County ($14) – Around the holidays, particularly before or during the Thanksgiving dinner, this exceptional California rose is sure to score a bulls-eye! Lovely strawberry notes and spice come together in an intriguing, exotic nose that is most inviting. On the palate it is fruity and satisfying, with enough oomph to stand up to strong flavors from turkey to stuffing to ham. Made from 100 percent Pinot Noir. Rating: 90 Husch 2005 Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley ($14) – This cool east-west flowing valley near the Mendocino Coast is ideal for the white grape varieties of Alsace, particularly the spicy Gewurztraminer. Husch's is made in a slightly off-dry style, is well balanced and quite aromatic. Perfect with Asian cuisine or fish- and seafood-based tapas. Rating: 88 WINE FINDS - OCTOBER, 2006: Pol Roger 1998 Brut Rose, France ($92) – This is a Champagne that can be served with many meat main courses, particularly game fowl, roast pork and veal loin. The Champenoise use better rose Champagnes in the same manner most foodies would use red wine, pairing it with strong flavors. Pol Roger’s ’98 Brut Rose has the power and firm structure to stand up to the test, but retains all of the freshness, elegance and finesse for which this outstanding house in Epernay is famed. Rating: 94   Taittinger “Prelude” Brut, France ($70) – Introduced a few harvests back, Prelude is the Taittinger Champagne house’s answer to the swelling ranks of Champagne growers making and bottling their own wines rather than selling their grapes to the top producers, as has been the custom. Many of these new grower/producers own vineyards that are 100 grand cru rated. Prelude is a multi-vintage blend made from Chardonnay grown in the grand cru villages of Avize and Le Mesnil sur Oger in the Cotes des Blancs and Pinot Noir grown in the grand cru villages of Bouzy and Ambonnay in the Montagne de Reims. This is a boldly structured, powerful Champagne that is on a par with most tetes de cuvee, though the aging process is considerably shorter. Rating: 93   Iron Horse 1998 Blanc de Blancs, Green Valley ($34) – One of my perennial favorites from this superb California producer is the blanc de blancs, a wine that is handled with great attention to detail and aged seven years on the yeast before disgorging. It offers fresh, lively fruit aromas, a firm spine and the evolved nuances of spice and toasty almond that come with age.  Rating: 93   Mumm Napa Valley Brut Prestige, Napa Valley ($18) – Dollar for dollar Mumm’s Brut Prestige might be the finest California has to offer in sparkling wine. With excellent structure, complex fruit aromas and the typically French nuances of toastiness and spice, this non-vintage brut is consistently good and often passes for true Champagne in a blind tastings. Rating: 89.   Iron Horse 2001 “Russian Cuvee”, Green Valley ($30) – This is Iron Horse’s crowd-pleaser, a creamy, satisfying sparkling wine that is easy on the palate (due to slightly more sweetness) and fruitier than many of its rivals. Rating: 89   Taittinger “La Francaise” Brut, France ($35) – This non-vintage brut, the workhorse of the Taittinger lineup, is the favored bubbly at many a Paris bistro. It seems to be everywhere. That’s a tribute to its reliability, always showing the characteristic Taittinger creaminess and elegance. Rating: 89   Canella Prosecco, Italy ($16) – Not all Prosecco’s have the crisp snap and length in the mouth that is evident with the non-vintage Canella, which charms with its slightly firmer structure and pure, fresh citrus aromas. Rating: 87   Lunetta Prosecco, Italy ($12) – A refreshing sipper from the Trentino region of northern Italy, this lovely Prosecco delivers fresh aromas of peach and apple, and a gentle effervescence coupled with modest alcohol punch (11.5 percent). Perfect as an aperitif or served with light appetizers. Rating: 85 Ferrari-Carano 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley ($30) – The red wines of Ferrari-Carano have always taken a back seat to the whites, perhaps because it was the rich, buttery Chardonnays of former winemaker George Bursick that put the winery on the map. Imagine my surprise, then, when I recently opened a 1994 Ferrari-Carano Cabernet Sauvignon and discovered it was just beginning to hit its stride. The Ferrari-Carano Cabernets are approachable when young, but don’t let those supple tannins fool you. These wines will age beautifully. The 2003 Ferrari-Carano is another in a lengthy string of impressive Cabernets, delivering a core of sweet red and black fruit aromas, hints of spice and a long, lingering finish. Rating: 93   Mission Hill 2004 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, Canada ($30) – From one of British Columbia’s most respected Okanagan Valley producers, this white Bordeaux-style blend is a stunner. It’s primarily Sauvignon, with about 15 percent Semillon in the blend. It is extraordinarily complex for a New World Sauvignon-based wine, showing exoctic aromas of tangerine, citrus and tropical fruits. Though there is a fair amount of oak used in the winemaking (more than 80 percent of the blend was fermented in barrel) the influence of wood is relatively muted, allowing the fruit to shine. Rating: 90   Hogue 2005 Riesling, Columbia Valley ($9) – The Hogue family resisted advice in the 1990s to tear out Riesling and plant Chardonnay, and now Hogue’s fortunes are rising along with the increased popularity of this noble German white grape variety. The continental climate of Eastern Washington produces riper, more exotic flavors than a cooler climate would, and like many excellent German Rieslings the Hogue Riesling is slightly off-dry, though beautifully balanced by bright acidity. Though this is considered a food wine, the overall balance, an enticing floral note and aromas of dried apricot and tangerine make for a superbly pleasing sipper. Rating: 88   Potel-Aviron 2004 Julienas, France ($16) – Nicolas Potel is making his mark in the Cote d’Or, but his modern style is reflected in his Beaujolais wines as well. This Beaujolais crus from Julienas has the structure and feel of a red Burgundy, with a complex nose and excellent body and grip. Rating: 88             Michel Torino 2005 “Don David” Torrontes, Argentina ($15) – I think of this always satisfying Argentine white as a quaffer with character. It’s calling card is an inviting aroma of rose petal that is typical of the grape. The Don David is light on the palate and easy to drink and delivers delicate tropical fruit aromas. Rating: 86 Eroica 2005 Riesling, Columbia Valley ($25) – There is little doubt in my mind that this collaboration between Germany’s Ernst Loosen and Washington Chateau Ste Michelle produces America’s finest expression of this classic German grape variety. The continental climate and poor soils of Eastern Washington have been a good fit for Riesling, and the Eroica is the epitome of that synergy. The ’05 vintage offers a flinty mineral spine, juicy stone fruit aromas and crisp acidity to balance the residual sugar. Rating: 93 Cuvaison 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Veeder ($38) – Absolutely one of the great steals today in Napa Valley Cab, Cuvaison’s ’03 Mount Veerder is densely colored, chunky and richly layered with aromas of black fruit, dried herbs and spice. The tannins are firm but ripe, indicating this wine will improve over the next decade though it is supple enough to serve tonight. Rating: 93 Beckmen 2004 “Purisima Mountain” Grenache, Santa Ynex Valley ($36) – It’s only a matter of time before more California vintners recognize the great potential for Grenache, the red grape that performs so well in Spain’s Priorat region, France’s Rhone Valley and Australia’s Barossa Valley. The Mediterranean climate of California’s Central and South Coast regions is ideal for this rich, spicy grape variety. Beckmen’s 2004 is a juicy, powerful expression of the grape that is surpassed in the state only by the superb Grenache made by John Alban in San Luis Obispo. Rating: 93 The Crossings 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand ($16) – About as complex as a flinty, mineral-driven Sauvignon Blanc can be, The Crossings combines those elements, firm acidity and an array of enticing fruit aromas – passionfruit, white peach, fig and melon – with a subtle herbal note that completes an impressive package. Rating: 92 Fortitude 2005 “Luvisi” Semillon, Napa Valley ($18) – It’s rare to find a varietal bottling of Semillon (a white grape often used for blending in Bordeaux blanc) in California, let alone one this remarkable. It’s remarkable because it’s so good, but also because it shows such freshness and crisp acidity out of a vineyard (Luvisi) in one of the Napa Valley’s warmest spots, near Calistoga. This wine delivers beautiful balance and minerality, fresh lime and citrus aromas and wonderful richness on the palate, with a clean, crisp, lingering finish. Rating: 90 Glazebrook 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand ($14) – Consistently one of my most reliable go-to Sauvignons when I’m look for a fresh, crisp, slightly tart, slightly grassy white to serve with tapas or light appetizers. The ’05 Glazebrook is light-bodied but full-flavored and deeply satisfying. Rating: 88 Ferrari-Carano 2004 Tre Terre, Russian River Valley ($34) – Ferrari-Carano’s reputation for Chardonnay is well deserved and there is no finer current example than the brilliant ’04 Tre Terre, a remarkably satisfying California Chardonnay that delivers exceptional depth and weight on the palate without being heavy. Mouth watering aromas of peach and apricot dominate on the forward palate, then give way to a spicy, elegant, lingering finish. Well done! Rating: 94 Cuvaison 2004 “Estate Selection” Pinot Noir, Carneros ($45) – This limited production Pinot from Cuvaison powerful and full-bodied, unlike many of the lighter Pinots for which the Carneros region is known. The structure and weight suggest a wine that will evolve nicely with age. Rating: 91 Olivier Leflaive 2005 “Les Setilles” Bourgogne Blanc, France ($17) – Those who would love a Burgundy fix without the high price will find this yummy Bourgogne from Olivier Leflaive just what the doctor ordered. This is a Bourgogne composed of higher classification “village” wines from the Cote de Beaune communes of Meurseault (60 percent) and Puligny-Montrachet (40 percent). The fruit is pure, the structure crisp and refreshing, the palate long and complex – not the everyday Bourgogne blanc by any stretch of the imagination. Factor in the fact that ’05 was a fabulous vintage in Burgundy and Olivier Leflaive is a Chardonnay specialist and you have a magical combination at a soothing price. Rating: 88 Ferrari-Carano 2005 Fume Blanc, Sonoma County ($16) – Long a leader in this style of California Sauvignon Blanc, Ferrari-Carano delivered another winning fume in 2005. It’s secret is simple: excellent grapes and brilliant winemaking. Ferrari-Carano’s fumes are partially barrel- and partially tank-fermented, giving subtle nuances of wood spice and smoke while retaining fresh fruit characteristics (melon, citrus, pear) that make for a great food wine, particularly shellfish, fish and poultry. Rating: 90 Hugel 2004 “Cuvee Les Amours” Pinot Blanc, France ($15) – Looking for a delicate but flavorful white to serve as an aperitif for the holidays, a wine that will keep your guests coming back for more and not hut you in the wallet too much? Hugel’s entry level Pinot Blanc “Cuvee Les Amours” is one of my leading candidates for a house white that is good enough to impress guests who fancy themselves wine savvy. It is well balanced and delivers the aroma profile of apple and pear that is typical of Pinot Blanc from Alsace. Rating: 87 WINE FINDS - SEPTEMBER, 2006: Flora Springs 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($30) – The '03 vintage turned out to be the best at Flora Springs in many years, particularly for the St. Helena winery's top reds. The Cabernet Sauvignon, made from 100 percent estate-grown grapes, mostly off the Rutherford vineyard, is a stunner. This wine was awarded Platinum at the 2006 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition and held its own nicely against the competition's Red Wine of the Year, the 2003 Flora Springs Trilogy. The beauty here is in the exquisite balance of the wine, the forward aromas of ripe cassis, black cherry and spice, and the smooth, ripe tannins. It's finesse personified and the price is exceptional given the quality in the bottle. Rating: 93 Kuleto 2003 Syrah, Napa Valley ($40) – The signature footprint of all Kuleto wines is depth of flavor. Over its brief history, Kuleto (owned by San Francisco restaurateur Pat Kuleto) has been remarkably consistent, delivering rich, deeply flavored, complex wines from its Napa Valley estate vineyard. The ’03 Syrah is richly layered with ripe berry fruit aromas, a hint of black pepper and subtle barrel aromas. On the palate it is full-bodied and supple, with smooth, sweet tannins and a lingering finish. Rating: 92 Museum Real 2002 Reserva, Spain ($24) – The Cigales region of Spain is known primarily for its rose, though the old Tempranillo (called Tinta del Pais in the region) vines planted in rocky soils similar to those seen in Chateauneuf-du-Pape have become a recent curiosity. Museum Real has realized the potential of these naturally low-yield vineyards with several excellent vintages of its benchmark red wine. The 2002 Reserva is typical of previous vintages, showing concentration and depth, generous aromas of red fruit and spice, and a touch of the mandatory earthiness. Rating: 91 Kumeu River 2005 ‘Village’ Chardonnay, New Zealand ($19) – Having ridden the Sauvignon Blanc wave into the U.S. market, it stood to reason that it was only a matter of time before top Kiwi winemakers exploited the growing acceptance of New Zealand wines by sending us something other than Sauvignon. We've seen the Pinot Noirs, and now there is world class Chardonnay. Kumeu River's 'Village' Chardonnay is a prime example of New Zealand's limitless potential for this grape. The '05 Village is beautifully structured, rich and mouth watering, and delivers complex aromas of baked apple, pear and hazelnut. The wine is aged in older oak casks to minimize the influence of the wood tannins and aromas. Beautifully executed and fairly priced. Rating: 90 Calistoga Cellars 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($18) – Fresh, clean and crisp, this is a beautiful example of an unoaked California Sauvignon that delivers complex aromatics and palate length despite the simplicity of vinification (stainless steel tanks) and absence of manipulation. Must be pretty good fruit, eh? Aromas of pear, peach and citrus are the dominant elements. Lovely wine. Rating: 90 Villa Matilde 2005 Greco di Tufo, Italy ($26) – One of Italy’s finest white grape varieties, Greco is the same grape that was originally grown on the slopes of Mount Vesuvious and called Lacryma Christi. When cultivated in the Avellino province of southern Italy it takes the name Greco di Tufo. Villa Matilde’s ’05 is a beautifully balanced wine, showing exceptional minerality and racy acidity combined with aromas of citrus and spice. On the palate it is rich and viscous, long in the mouth and delivers the essence of swet fruit despite finishing quite dry. Rating: 90 Rosenblum 2004 ‘Hillside Vineyards’ Syrah, Sonoma County ($25) – If depth of color and sheer power in the mouth were the mark of a great wine, this would be a great wine. Inky black, almost opaque, it is rich and powerful, with aromas of blackberry and blueberry, a mild suggestion of woodsmoke and and a long, supple finish. While the aromas and flavors are attractive, the wine comes across on the palate as a wee bit heavy and begs the question: What would you serve with it? It's hardly an aperitif. It will need a juicy steak or a slab of venison or something rich alon the lines of a duckleg confit to show its best. Rating: 89 Mad Fish 2005 Riesling, Western Australia ($12) – This Riesling from Western Australia is juicy and mouth-filling, with a lovely balance between sweetness and acidity. The nose is the famously mineral/petrol nose of Riesling. Fresh lime and melon aromas abound. An absolutely beautiful everyday Riesling at a reasonable price. Rating: 88 Ruffino 2003 ‘Il Ducale’, Italy ($19) – Ruffino is to be applauded for its innovative Il Ducale Super Tuscan, though there is the risk wine enthusiasts may confuse the new wine with the popular Riserva Ducale and Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classicos from Ruffino. The wines are nothing alike. The new Il Ducale (a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon) is made in the riper, more voluptuous “international” style. Add to that the fact that the first vintage was produced in the heat wave that gripped Europe throughout the summer of '03, accentuating the ripe style. Compared to Chianti, Il Ducale is positively jammy. That said, it's a promising wine, a wine of excellent depth and richness, with clean, pure black fruit and and notes of spice. Very yummy stuff and a good start foe this new line. Rating: 89 Rodney Strong 2005 -- ‘Charlotte’s Home’ Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($14) – Though Rodney Strong's Charlotte's Home Sauvignon has changed a bit over the years (it was once a single-vineyard selection from the Alexander Valley, but now incorporates fruit from the Russian River Valley) it has retained the one element that always distinguished it in a crowd: balance. The '05 vintage is a lovely expression of this Sauvignon staple, offering a floral nose, aromas of white peach and melon, and a suggestion of wood spice. Rating: 88 Angove’s 2006 Nine Vines Rose, Australia ($10) – This Aussie rose first came to my attention when it won a Best of Show awards at a major international wine competition. This is another in a string of excellent vintages since then. Produced from Grenache and Syrah grapes sourced from the Riveland region of South Australia, the Angive’s Nine Vines is a vibrant dry rose made for easy summer sipping. It shows bright red currant and raspberry aromas, a hint of spice and a long finish – a steal at $10 or less. Rating: 88 El Coto 2005 Rioja Bianco, Spain ($11) – One of the top producers from Spain's Rioja region, El Coto places as much emphasis on value as it does quality. This beautiful white Rioja (100 percent Viura) is fresh and clean on the palate, showing subtle aromas of green apple and pear with a hint of anise on the finish, and good minerality to boot. A wondeful quaffer, it also pairs nicely with roasted chicken and shellfish. Rating: 87 Saint M 2005 Riesling, Germany ($12) – This off-dry Riesling from Germany's famed Ernst Loosen reflects the ideal conditions of the 2005 harvest. It delivers pure, juicy, mouth-filling fruit aromas, refreshing acidity and a touch of minerality on the finish – the complete package. A perfect complement to spicy cuisine or barbecued fish dishes. Rating: 87 El Coto de Rioja 2005 Rosado, Spain ($10)– Few wines are more satisfying on a steamy summer day that a dry rose from Spain’s Rioja region, particularly when washing down Mediterranean tapas. El Coto’s rosado is a blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha (better known by its French name, Grenache) and its is a pale red, almost onion-skin color that is similar in appearance to many of the roses of France’s Rhone region. Pretty red fruit aromas dominate the nose. On the palate it is crisp and refreshing, light and quaffable, a fine match for savory appetizers. Rating: 86 WINE FINDS - AUGUST, 2006: Dry Creek Vineyard 2004 “DCV3” Fume Blanc, Dry Creek Valley ($25) – Dry Creek Vineyard is one of California's true Sauvignon Blanc specialists. Sauvignon was one of the passions of founder David Stare and his winery did more than most to make the argument that California could produce serious Sauvignon on a par with those from Bordeaux, the Loire Valley and, lately, New Zealand. Over the years Dry Creek has refined its trademark grassy character, eliminating the more offensive weedy aromas in favor of an herbaceous, herbal backnote that doesn't mask the complex grapefruit, melon and stone fruit aromas that its vineyards yield. The Sauvignons are better than ever from Dry Creek Vineyard, and this single-vineyard DCV3 bottling captures that fact in the bottle, where it belongs. It has palate weight, yet elegance, and an array of aromas that are uncommon in an ordinary Sauvignon. Rating: 94 Joseph Drouhin 2004 Beaune “Clos des Mouches” Blanc, France ($70) – Here’s my white Burgundy problem: When it’s good, it’s very good, and when it’s very good, it’s very expensive. But if you ever might be inclined to take a big pop at a top-shelf white Burgundy, this vintage of Clos des Mouches from Drouhin is an exquisite example of a white Burgundy with bold structure and elegance, a wine that is toasty and rich without losing its minerality or crisp acidity. Clos des Mouches is one of the most revered premier cru vineyards in the Cote de Beaune. Rating: 94 Montes Alpha 2004 Syrah, Chile ($23) – The worldwide craze over Syrah hasn’t quite taken hold in Chile, although there is growing interest among producers in this noble red grape from France’s Rhone Valley. The shining exception is Aurelio Montes, who was profoundly impressed during a trip to the northern Rhone several years ago. He returned to Chile and immediately set about planting Syrah vines on the steepest hillsides near his winery in the Colchagua Valley – at a time when most of the other vineyards of Chile were planted on the easier-to-farm valley floors. Though this was quickly dubbed Montes’ “folly”, a name he used later on his very best Syrah of each vintage, it was Montes who enjoyed the last laugh. His Syrah is the finest in South America and one of the best in the world. The “Alpha” Syrah may be a cut below the “Folly” Syrah, but then it’s one-third the price. The powerfully structured ’04 Alpha features a meaty, smoky nose, bold black fruit aromas on the palate and a suggestion of spice. Rating: 92 Rubicon 2004 Blancaneaux, Rutherford ($40) – Rubicon's efforts to produce a world-class white Rhone blend have not always been so successful. The 2004 vintage leans heavily upon the Roussanne component (nearly 60 percent), which delivers a minerality that Viognier and Marsanne lack and makes this perhaps the most appealing Blancaneaux to date. The nose is floral and spicy, followed by a rich, complex palate of apricot and white peach. The beauty of this vintage is that it is made without a heavy hand on the oak, showcasing the subtle fruit aromas inherent in the blend. Rating: 92 Provenance Vineyards 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Rutherford ($19) – Everyone who followed winemaker Tom Rinaldi's career at Duckhorn knows there was a flip side to all of those great Merlots he made through the years. That was Sauvignon Blanc, which was perennially among the finest made in the Napa Valley. Rinaldi has continued to show a deft hand with Sauvignon since moving over to Provenance some years back, but the '05 vintage is his first from estate-grown fruit off the winery's Rutherford property. The first effort from the estate (the vineyards were planted in 2003) is impressive. It's fresh and clean on the nose, with aromas of white flower, melon and peach. Well balanced, with a long, clean finish. Rating: 91 Silver Stone 2005 “Cedar Lane Vineyard” Sauvignon Blanc, Arroyo Seco ($15) –This is veteran winemaker Dan Kleck's personal venture. He makes the wines at a facility in Paso Robles and his production is small, so the best way to find his promising hand-crafted wines is through the website at www.silverstonewines.com. The '05 Sauvignon Blanc is from a cool region in Monterey County and that shows itself in the fresh, lean, mineral edge. Complexity and richness emerge on the back palate, giving this Sauvignon another dimension. Rating: 89 Avila 2004 “Cote de Avila”, Santa Barbara County ($12) – This is a lighter-bodied red after the fashion of a French Cotes-de-Rhone. Though supple and easy drinking, there is a modicum of complexity, bright red-fruit aromas and a spicy, lingering finish that over-delivers in this price category. Very nice either as a late-summer quaffer or with barbecued meats. Rating: 88 WINE FINDS - JULY, 2006: Montecillo 1998 Gran Reserva Rioja, Spain ($25) – Another great red from Montecillo, yawn! Whether you are an earnest wine collector and are looking for a wine to cellar for a decade or mor, or just a wine lover looking for an exceptional red to serve with dinner, this ultra-smooth Rioja will do the job. The rich black-fruit character of Montecillo’s gran reserve hasn’t lost its punch with time in wood, but the tannins have matured into pure silk. Rating: 93 Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve, France ($40) – This ultra-premium Champagne house has been on a roll of late, but one needn’t have deep pockets to enjoy the impressive work of the Chef de Cave. Charles Heidsieck’s Brut Reserve is the finest the Champagne region has to offer in the non-vintage brut category (excepting the non-vintage or multi-vintage tetes de cuvee wines produced by the likes of Krug). This is a big wine for a Champagne, with power on the palate, remarkable depth and exceptional length in the mouth. Rating: 93 Geyser Peak 2005 Block Collection Sauvignon Blanc, “River Road Ranch,” Russian River Valley ($21) – The peach/stone fruit aroma profile suggests Bordeaux blanc, though in a richer, riper New World style. Geyser Peak also adds a bit of oak aging to its top Sauvignon Blancs, as do the Bordelais, but it’s just enough to add subtle complexities without overwhelming the pure fruit aromas that are dominant in this gorgeous example of California Sauvignon. A Critics Gold-winner at the 2006 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition. Rating: 92 Barnwood Vineyards 2004 ‘Untamed’ Tempranillo, San Luis Obispo County ($22) – It’s been somewhat of a mystery that this exceptional red grape of Spain has not been more widely planted in the U.S., particularly sun-drenched California. Speculation on why that is so runs the gamut from difficulty of pronunciation to lack of basic knowledge about the grape’s rich heritage. Nevertheless, when done well this grape variety can shine. Barnwood’s Tempranillo took the highest award at the 2006 Critics Challenge – Platinum – and showed decidedly brighter, more succulent fruit character than the Tempranillo-based Rioja that also made it to the Platinum round of voting. Rating: 92 Chappellet 2003 Merlot, Napa Valley ($30) – Despite the fact it is a Napa Valley icon and surrounded by a couple of cult producers – the ultra expensive Bryant Family and Colgin – Chappellet has maintained relatively modest prices while maintaining its very high standards over the past couple of decades. The Merlot has always been one of the very best in the valley and nothing has changed. The 2003 vintage is beautifully balanced, showing supple currant and black cherry fruit, with spice and chocolate notes and a long, sweet finish. Rating: 91 Gary Farrell 2005 “Redwood Ranch” Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($20) – Farrell is a meticulous winemaker and perhaps California’s most deft hand with Pinot Noir, so it should surprise no one that he excels at just about everything else vinous. The Redwood Ranch Sauvignon shows lovely melon and peach fruit character and perfect balance. Rating: 90 J. Lohr 2004 ‘Riverstone’ Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco ($14) – J. Lohr has long recognized the quality of Monterey County Chardonnay. The region produces rich, complex Chardonnay with exceptional structure, yet the prices have never been in the same league with equivalent quality Chardonnays from Napa or Sonoma. The Riverstone is produced in a medium-bodied style that accentuates the layered complexity of Monterey Chardonnay with just the right touch of oak. Rating: 89 Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut, Sonoma County ($18) – Good bubbly at less than $20 per bottle is a bargain regardless of its origin, but few in the price range deliver the depth of flavor and exquisite balance found in Gloria Ferrer’s non-vintage brut. This stellar California producer seems to have hit its stride over the past five years and is very competitive with its two main rivals in this category – Anderson Valley’s Roederer Estate and Mumm Napa Valley. Rating: 88 Dry Creek Vineyard 2004 Fume Blanc, Sonoma County ($13) – Easy to take this wine for granted because it’s been so reliably good for so long. It shows a bit of grass and dried herbs on the nose, with plenty of peach and melon fruit that is subtle, with just enough intensity to stand up to savory summer dishes. Rating: 88 WINE FINDS - JUNE, 2006: Baileyana 2004 “GFC” Chardonnay, Edna Valley ($30) – Winemaker Christian Roguenant’s roots are in the Burgundy region of France and no doubt account for his stylistic preferences when it comes to Chardonnay. This wine – the GFC is short for Grand Firepeak Cuvee – is a beautifully structured, crisp California Chardonnay that is so very rare, a rich, mouth-filling Chardonnay with outstanding backbone. It was nominated for Best of Show white wine at the recent San Diego International Wine Competition, and though it didn’t win it was easily my favorite among the Chardonnays that were entered. Rating: 93 Eberle 2004 “Remo Belli Vineyard” Zinfandel, Paso Robles ($22) – Eberle Zins are among the finest produced in the increasingly chic Paso Robles region and its Remo Belli is the star of the stable (there are two other Zins), and the ’04 is no exception. This one’s a bit high on the alcohol at more than 15 percent, but the alcohol is masked somewhat by a generous helping of spicy new oak. It’s yummy without being jammy, with the intense red berry aromas that make Zin lovers swoon. Rating: 90 Lumina 2005 Pinot Grigio, Italy ($12) – Ruffino’s basic pinot grigio from the Venezia Giulia region in the northeast corner of Italy is pale straw in color, it offers a gentle floral nuance on the nose and lime/citrus aromas. On the palate it has length and texture, most likely from aging on the lees, which is becoming more common in the production of light-bodied white wines. Rating: 87 Joseph Drouhin 2005 Saint-Veran, France ($20) – This excellent vintage is the perfect spot for the less expensive village wines of Burgundy, particularly the white Burgundies. The Saint-Veran is lovely – meaning restrained, yet with plenty of personality and fresh acidity. The aromas of baked apple and ripe pear have good intensity of flavor with excellent persistence in the mouth. Rating: 88 M. Chapoutier 2004 Belleruche Cotes-du-Rhone, France ($12) – Chapoutier fares much better with his Cotes-du-Rhone rouge than its blanc, with this vintage being an excellent example. While the ’04 blanc is somewhat lackluster, the rouge shows an intense red berry character, savory scents of leather and earth and fine tannins that deliver a pleasing mouthfeel. Rating: 87 Masi 2001 Serego Alighieri Valpolicella, Italy ($25) – This is not your daddy’s Valpolicella, by a long shot. Masi’s Serego Alighieri is near the head of the class in this renaissance of one of Italy’s classic red wines. Once upon a time the best Corvina – the principal grape used in the Valpolicella blend – was automatically earmarked for the Veneto region’s top wine, the Amarone. Valpolicella suffered across the board and developed a reputation as cheap plonk. The age of enlightenment hit about a decade back and now there is a steady stream of Valpolicella with body and complexity, or, in a word: character. This ’01 Serego Alighieri has the classic notes of dried cherries and earth that is typical in good Valpolicella. Rating: 90 Chateau Mont-Redon 2002 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, France ($33) – In this rain-drenched vintage the south of France fared much better than other parts of the country and managed to produce some excellent wines. This one is a blend of Roussanne and Grenache Blanc that offers up an intriguing nose of white flowers and peach. It is slightly hot on the palate, but that is typical of a white Rhone and most producers believe slightly elevated alcohol levels contribute to the structure and ultimately the longevity of the wine. Rating: 88 Calera 2003 Chardonnay, Central Coast ($14) – Generally speaking overtly tropical Chardonnays don’t do much for me and tend to all taste the same. Calera’s Central Coast bottling is the exception, however, because the intense pineapple aroma is so inviting. This is a remarkably complex Chardonnay for the price range and an excellent match for richer fish dishes. Rating: 87 Joseph Drouhin 2005 Moulin-a-Vent, France ($19) – For my money Moulin-a-Vent is the top “cru” of Beaujolais, consistently yielding wines of exceptional structure and character that even villages of the Cote d’Or must envy. This vintage produced a Beaujolais of depth, richness and texture, showing appealing black fruit characteristics and fine-grained tannins. Rating: 90 McWilliams Hanwood Estate 2005 Riesling, Australia ($12) – There is no doubt Australia produces the finest “New World” Rieslings. From bone dry to slightly off-dry, the Rieslings of Australia typically possess the lovely balance that so many other winegrowing regions find difficult to achieve. The McWilliams is an excellent example of an everyday Aussie Riesling: inexpensive, balanced, inviting and flavorful. This one is high on citrus aromas, with a hint of minerality and clean, crisp acidity. Rating: 87 Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve, France ($40) – This ultra-premium Champagne house has been on a roll of late, but one needn’t have deep pockets to enjoy the impressive work of the Chef de Cave. Charles Heidsieck’s Brut Reserve is the finest the Champagne region has to offer in the non-vintage brut category (excepting the non-vintage or multi-vintage tetes de cuvee wines produced by the likes of Krug). This is a big wine for a Champagne, with power on the palate, remarkable depth and exceptional length in the mouth. Rating: 93 Barnwood Vineyards 2004 ‘Untamed’ Tempranillo, San Luis Obispo County ($22) – It’s been somewhat of a mystery that this exceptional red grape of Spain has not been more widely planted in the U.S., particularly sun-drenched California. Speculation on why that is so runs the gamut from difficulty of pronunciation to lack of basic knowledge about the grape’s rich heritage. Nevertheless, when done well this grape variety can shine. Barnwood’s Tempranillo took the highest award at the 2006 Critics Challenge – Platinum – and showed decidedly brighter, more succulent fruit character than the Tempranillo-based Rioja that also made it to the Platinum round of voting. Rating: 92 Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut, Sonoma County ($18) – Good bubbly at less than $20 per bottle is a bargain regardless of its origin, but few in the price range deliver the depth of flavor and exquisite balance found in Gloria Ferrer’s non-vintage brut. This stellar California producer seems to have hit its stride over the past five years and is very competitive with its two main rivals in this category – Anderson Valley’s Roederer Estate and Mumm Napa Valley. Rating: 88 Dry Creek Vineyard 2004 Fume Blanc, Sonoma County ($13) – Easy to take this wine for granted because it’s been so reliably good for so long. It shows a bit of grass and dried herbs on the nose, with plenty of peach and melon fruit that is subtle, with just enough intensity to stand up to savory summer dishes. Rating: 88 WINE FINDS - MAY, 2006: Tamar Ridge 2003 Riesling, Australia ($20) – Exceptionally European for a New World Riesling, this beauty from the cool climate of Tasmania is a stunning example of the deft hand many Aussie winemakers have with this grape variety. The minerality on the nose is very appealing and will recall memories of outstanding dry Rieslings from Alsace, and the depth and structure are similarly familiar. This wine won a gold medal and was a contender for Best of Show white wine at the 2006 San Diego International Wine Competition. Rating: 93 Cabreo 2003 ‘La Pietra’ Chardonnay, Italy ($25) – Tuscany isn’t the first place the savvy wine buff would search for an outstanding Chardonnay, but rest assured they do exist. The Cabreo wines were once part of the Ruffino empire, but have stood on their own since the family split off about a decade ago. What’s extraordinary here is the balance and elegance in a Chardonnay from such a warm vintage. Beautifully layered, this wine shows wonderful baked apple, pear and custard aromas and the merest hint of oak. Rating: 91 Two Angels 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, High Valley ($15) – Beautifully crafted in what is fast becoming the signature style for California Sauvignon Blanc, which is to say a Sauvignon that exhibits ripe melon and white fruit (peach, pear, etc.) aromas and flavors. The Two Angels Sauvignon is elegantly balanced, shows excellent persistence of flavor and a long, satisfying finish. Rating: 90 Goundrey 2003 ‘Offspring’ Shiraz, Australia ($16) – Bright raspberry aromas give this Shiraz from Western Australia enormous appeal. It is young and in need of time to open in the glass after the cork has been pulled, but a little bit of air will have tremendous impact on your impression of the wine. Rating: 89 Gallo Family Vineyards 2003 Merlot, Sonoma Reserve ($11) – This Merlot is loaded with gorgeous black fruit character and plenty of depth and structure, but with aggressive tannins that require a bit of patience. Either cellar it for another year or so or only serve it with strong meat dishes or cheeses that will absorb and neutralize the strong tannins. Rating: 87 Etude 2003 ‘Heirloom’ Pinot Noir, Carneros ($80) – You will most likely only find this wine (a meager 900 cases were produced) on the wine list at a chic wine savvy restaurant, but that’s probably the perfect stage for this ultra-smooth, seamless Carneros Pinot Noir from the Tony Soter crew. Soter is the brilliant winemaker who founded Etude, where he built the winery’s reputation largely on the strength of his knack for making great Pinot (although he’s also remembered as the winemaker who put the Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon on the map). The ’03 Heirloom is a complex, layered Pinot that is about as far removed as a wine can get from the typical candied red-fruit character of so much Carneros Pinot Noir. Rating: 96 Two Angels 2004 Petite Sirah, High Valley ($26) – Grapes for this wine are sourced from the volcanic soils of the Shannon Ridge Vineyards at an elevation of 2000 feet in Lake County’s relatively new High Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area). The area produces intensely concentrated wines that can exhibit exceptional structure and minerality. The Two Angels Petite – rich, powerful and complex – is an excellent example. Yet for all its muscle, this wine is nicely balanced, showing bright red and black fruit and firm but sweet tannins. Rating: 93 Mastroberadino 2004 Lacryma Christi Bianco, Italy ($19) – The white wines of southern Italy are remarkable in the sense that they develop richness and depth from the warmth of the climate yet maintain acidity and minerality that keep them fresh and exciting, as well as an excellent match with the savory cuisine found in the area around Naples. The ’04 Lacryma Christi (translated to ‘the tears of Christ’) offers a voluptuous mouthfeel, ripe aromas of tropical fruit and peach, and a earthy, slightly medicinal minerality that is typical of the region. Rating: 90 Penfolds 2004 ‘Bin 2’ Shiraz Mourvedre, Australia ($15) – Unlike many of the inexpensive Aussie reds in this price range, the Penfolds Bin 2 would benefit from a bit of cellaring if anyone had the patience. It’s still behaving like a young wine, very tight and slow to express all of its charms, but the underlying complexity and structure suggest this wine will seriously improve over the next couple of years. It’s loaded with mouth-filling dark-fruit aromas and spice and sports firm tannins that will take just a bit more time to resolve. Rating: 89 Firestone 2005 Gewurztraminer, Santa Ynez Valley ($12) – This Central Coast winery long ago established a solid reputation for Alsatian-style wines – an off-dry Riesling that’s really more dry than off-dry, and a delicately structured dry Gewurtraminer that eloquently displays the floral and spice characteristics of this overlooked grape variety. This Gewurz will definitely be on my short list of summer whites. Rating: 87 Santa Barbara Winery 2005 Rose of Syrah, Santa Rita Hills ($15) – I'm not sure when exactly Santa Barbara Winery turned the corner and joined the elites of Santa Barbara County wine, but this winery has certainly become a force for quality in the region. Across the board its wines deliver exceptional flavor and are generally well balanced despite the trend toward overripe, high alcohol wines. This crisp, full-flavored dry rose is yet another example of the winery's magic touch of late. Rating: 90 Chateau St. Jean 2003 ‘Belle Terre Vineyard’ Chardonnay, Alexander Valley ($22) – Chateau St. Jean built its reputation more than two decades back on rich, mouth-filling vineyard-designated chardonnays from the Alexander Valley. Although its Robert Young Vineyard bottlings generally hogged the limelight, the Belle Terre was none too shabby. The '03 is nicely balanced – rich without being heavy – and shows complex notes of pear, melon and peach. The judicious use of wood complements rather than offends this wine, its most obvious influence showing up in the slightly vanillin finish. Rating: 88 Peter Lehmann 2003 Semillon, Australia ($10) – In its price range this is one of the finest whites you can buy for easy summer sipping. There are two primary styles of Semillon made in Australia: a lean, high acid austere style that is crisp and refreshing when young and delightfully comoplex with age; and a juicy, fruit-forward style that is a bit honied and offeres aromas of yellow fruits. The Peter Lehmann is the latter, a luscious, round, fun wine for summer at a tremendous price. Rating: 86 Cecchi 2001 Spargolo, Italy ($38) – A Super Tuscan made in the heart of the Chianto Classico district, Cecchi’s Spargolo is unusual for the genre because it’s 100 percent Sangiovese when most of the Super Tuscans in the neighborhood are typically made from some combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. That said, Spargolo is nothing like a Chianti. The ripeness of fruit, richness and power on the palate and distinct black fruit characteristics are unusual for Sangiovese, to say the least. What it does possess that is common to the Chianti made in the region is super fine tannins, which make this wine enjoyable even in its youth. Rating: 91 Clos du Val 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($30) – One of the superstars of the Napa Valley during the heady expansion of the California wine industry in the 1970s, Clos du Val is often overlooked these days in favor of trendy new properties that don’t have anything close to the Clos du Val track record for quality. Its basic Napa Valley Cabernet from the ’03 vintage is modestly priced by Napa standards but delivers excellent intensity of dark fruit aroma, smooth, well integrated tannins and a hint of earthiness. A top-notch effort from one of the Napa Valley greats. Rating: 89 Eberle 2004 Barbera, Paso Robles ($28) – Unlike the juicy, succulent 2003 Barbera from Eberle, the ’04 is leaner and tighter and has more in common with a true Italian Barbera. Beautiful blackberry and spice notes are somewhat muted at the moment by assertive acidity, but the acid will soften with time and this wine has every right to improve with time. If you serve it young, the pleasure will be greatest if served with food. Rating: 89 Masi 2005 Masianco, Italy ($12) – The crisp, light whites of northern Italy’s Veneto region are perfect for after-work sipping and light suppers in summer. Masi’s Masianco is a blend of Pinot Grigio and Verduzzo, the latter grape adding a creamy texture and eliminating some of the lime citrus bite of the Pinot Grigio. This wine is refreshing and light, but solidly made and delicious enough to serve as a house white through the summer without tiring of the flavors. Rating: 87 Famiglia Bianchi 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Argentina ($15) – Made in a rounded, smooth style to emphasize the melon characters inherent in the grape, the Bianchi Sauvignon is another refreshing summer sipper that is light-bodied yet flavorful and just right for Sauvignon fans who haven’t warmed to the more aggressive herbal style of Sauvignon made popular in New Zealand. Rating: 86 WINE FINDS - JANUARY 27, 2006: Montes 2003 ‘Folly’ Syrah, Chile ($70) – The man who produced "Folly" is the Chilean winemaking icon, Aurelio Montes, and he's nobody's fool. The brilliance of Aurelio Montes was underscored a number of years ago when the great Michel Rolland arrived in Chile to consult at Casa Lapostolle. The cocky Frenchman is nobody's fool, either, and he immediately hired Montes to teach him about Chilean viticulture. Montes' Folly, or folly, if you please, was to plant Syrah on very steep, inhospitable hillsides in the Apalta Valley. Never mind that no one had ever had much success with Syrah in Chile. The 2003 Folly is another achievment in a string of excellent vintages of Syrah from this vineyard. It is tightly wound and powerful, much in the style of an exceptional wine from the northern Rhone. This well-balanced Syrah has a beautiful core of sweet fruit that is momentarily masked by the firmness of the tannins. Give it a good two to three years before opening and you, too, will be nobody's fool! Rating: 96 Veramonte 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Chile ($9) – This cool region between Santiago and the sea is undoubtedly Chile's finest region for white wines. Veramonte's Sauvignon Blanc takes its cue from the climate, which contributes mightly to both aromatics and firm acidty of Veramonte's Sauvignon. This is a floral wine, with pretty white fruit and citrus aromas and a long, pleasing aftertaste. And the price makes it taste all the better. Rating: 88 WINE FINDS - JANUARY 19, 2006: Ladera 2002 “Lone Canyon” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($65) – At first blush I’m inclined to wonder why the world needs another $65 Cabernet Sauvignon. After tasting the wine, however, I’m seriously pleased they’re not asking for $100 because it’s that good. This is a powerhouse Cabernet, very complex, with uncommon richness and depth. It’s only a matter of time before Ladera claims a place among the Napa Valley’s top producers of Cabernet Sauvignon. Rating: 95 Parallel 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($44) – This is a first release from a new Napa Valley producer and the future for this winery would seem to be very promising. The grapes were sourced from Howell Mountain and Calistoga, but the sleek tannins would hardly betray this as a mountain-grown cab. It is bold and voluptuous on the palate, layered and exceptionally well balanced and elegant despite its broad shoulders. Rating: 93 Epiphany 2003 “Starlane Vineyard” Syrah, Santa Barbara County ($25) – This wine comes from the warmer Santa Ynez Valley region of Santa Barbara County and it shows in the richness and flesh on the palate. For those buffs of supple, fruit-forward California Syrah, this blueberry fruit bomb will be a keeper. Rating: 93 Yelcho 2005 Sauvignon Blanc Reserva, Chile ($9) – Sourced from the cool Casablanca Valley outside of Santiago, where the temps are moderated by a cooling maritime influence, the Yelcho Sauvignon Blanc is fresh and crisp on the palate, with a slightly grassy nose and fairly intense and persistent flavors of citrus. Rating: 87 Cloudy Bay 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand ($30) – The sauvignon blanc that put New Zealand wine on the map seems to be returning to its roots, delivering more of the herbaceous aromatics and tangy grapefruit in the ’05 vintage than has been seen from Cloudy Bay in some time. Cloudy Bay had been moving in the direction of ripe, tropical fruit aromas and away from the earthier fruit nuances and intense minerality that made it an icon in New Zealand’s Marlborough region. But the ’05 vintage is a superb example of the oft-imitated Cloudy Bay style. Rating: 94 Pighin 2004 “Collio” Pinot Grigio, Italy ($23) – Although the recent rise in interest in this Italian white grape variety has spawned production of an ocean of uninspiring wine, pinot grigio from the right areas (Friuli and Alto Adige are at the top of the list) can be a serious wine when handled with care. Pighin produces a couple of pinot grigios from Friuli, but this one, from the Collio district, is the weightier and more complex of the two, with excellent intensity of fruit and exceptional minerality. The grapes are hand harvested from low-yielding hillside vineyards at the foot of the Alps. The quality of the fruit and the care in handling are readily apparent in a pinot grigio that is several cuts above the everyday plonk that is widely available. Rating: 92 Kendall-Jackson 2003 “Vintner’s Reserve” Syrah, California ($12) – It seems as though the “Vinter’s Reserve” wines, the lowest rung on the K-J ladder, has found another gear and are once again close to being the industry leading in this price category. The ’03 Syrah has plenty of horsepower, with bold dark berry fruit notes and a flattering earthiness that gives this wine a touch of character. Rating: 88 Montes 2003 ‘Folly’ Syrah, Chile ($70) – The man who produced "Folly" is the Chilean winemaking icon, Aurelio Montes, and he's nobody's fool. The brilliance of Aurelio Montes was underscored a number of years ago when the great Michel Rolland arrived in Chile to consult at Casa Lapostolle. The cocky Frenchman is nobody's fool, either, and he immediately hired Montes to teach him about Chilean viticulture. Montes' Folly, or folly, if you please, was to plant Syrah on very steep, inhospitable hillsides in the Apalta Valley. Never mind that no one had ever had much success with Syrah in Chile. The 2003 Folly is another achievment in a string of excellent vintages of Syrah from this vineyard. It is tightly wound and powerful, much in the style of an exceptional wine from the northern Rhone. This well-balanced Syrah has a beautiful core of sweet fruit that is momentarily masked by the firmness of the tannins. Give it a good two to three years before opening and you, too, will be nobody's fool! Rating: 96 Veramonte 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Chile ($9) – This cool region between Santiago and the sea is undoubtedly Chile's finest region for white wines. Veramonte's Sauvignon Blanc takes its cue from the climate, which contributes mightly to both aromatics and firm acidty of Veramonte's Sauvignon. This is a floral wine, with pretty white fruit and citrus aromas and a long, pleasing aftertaste. And the price makes it taste all the better. Rating: 88 WINE FINDS - JANUARY 6, 2006: Spottswoode 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($30) – There are three major camps of sauvignon blanc: the herbal, pungent, grapefruit strain epitomized by the sauvignon blancs of New Zealand; the mineral, slate and focused citrus types from France’s Loire Valley; and the floral, rich, creamy sauvignon blancs of Bordeaux. Spottswoode falls into the Bordeaux camp, exhibiting a floral nose, aromas of peach and white fruits, and showing a thread of minerality that lifts the entire package to another level. One of California’s finest sauvignon blancs, without a dount. Rating: 94 Etude 2003 Pinot Noir, Carneros ($40) – Even as the trend in California pinot noir appears to be moving in the direction of overripe fruit and unusually high alcohol levels, there are those who haven’t forgotten that elegance and balance are the characteristics that dedicated pinot fans prize. Tony Soter’s ’03 Etude Pinot Noir has plenty of horsepower without losing the delicate aromas (black cheery) and silky mouthfeel that distinguish high class pinot noir from the rest of the pack. Rating: 93 Il Poggione 2003 Rosso di Montalcino, Italy ($23) – Once upon a time a good Rosso di Montalcino resembled a light Chianti and commanded little attention. Viticulture and winemaking in the region are vastly improved, however, and the demand for a more serious Rosso di Montalcino has found overall growth along with the rising popularity of the vaunted Brunello di Montalcino. Il Poggione makes one of the best of this more ambitious genre of Rosso, and in ’03 delivered a rich, slightly tannic Rosso that opens up beautifully with food. Rating: 89 Hess Select 2004 Chardonnay, California ($10) – In need of a well-balanced white with good complexity, ample body and a great price? Hess Select’s ’04 Chardonnay is sourced primarily from Monterey County vineyards, where chardonnay performs exceptionally well, and they do just enough with oak and winemaking wizardy in the winery to make this wine interesting without seeming contrived. Rating: 86 Cloudy Bay 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand ($30) – The sauvignon blanc that put New Zealand wine on the map seems to be returning to its roots, delivering more of the herbaceous aromatics and tangy grapefruit in the ’05 vintage than has been seen from Cloudy Bay in some time. Cloudy Bay had been moving in the direction of ripe, tropical fruit aromas and away from the earthier fruit nuances and intense minerality that made it an icon in New Zealand’s Marlborough region. But the ’05 vintage is a superb example of the oft-imitated Cloudy Bay style. Rating: 94 Pighin 2004 “Collio” Pinot Grigio, Italy ($23) – Although the recent rise in interest in this Italian white grape variety has spawned production of an ocean of uninspiring wine, pinot grigio from the right areas (Friuli and Alto Adige are at the top of the list) can be a serious wine when handled with care. Pighin produces a couple of pinot grigios from Friuli, but this one, from the Collio district, is the weightier and more complex of the two, with excellent intensity of fruit and exceptional minerality. The grapes are hand harvested from low-yielding hillside vineyards at the foot of the Alps. The quality of the fruit and the care in handling are readily apparent in a pinot grigio that is several cuts above the everyday plonk that is widely available. Rating: 92 Kendall-Jackson 2003 “Vintner’s Reserve” Syrah, California ($12) – It seems as though the “Vinter’s Reserve” wines, the lowest rung on the K-J ladder, has found another gear and are once again close to being the industry leading in this price category. The ’03 Syrah has plenty of horsepower, with bold dark berry fruit notes and a flattering earthiness that gives this wine a touch of character. Rating: 88 WINE FINDS - DECEMBER 23, 2005: Quinta do Vesuvio 2003 Vintage Porto, Portugal ($78) – This is a densely colored, massive Port that is nothing less than profound. Such power and depth is only present in the best of years. Its rich, mouth-filling fruit is spicy and complex, complemented by an expressive nose of violets, plum and chocolate. Mature tannins add textural heft and contribute to a lingering finish. Rating: 98 Fonseca 2003 Vintage Porto, Portugal ($90) – I confess to a long-standing bias for the spicy (as in spice box spices such as cinnamon and vanilla) style of Fonseca. This vintage is richly colored and dense, with Fonseca’s trademark exotic nose. Hints of licorice and a chalky texture complete the amazing package. Despite its supple tannins and bright, yummy black fruits, this vintage of Fonseca should evolve nicely over the next three to four decades. Rating: 97 Taylor Fladgate 2003 Vintage Porto, Portugal ($90) – Port connoisseurs often debate their preferences between the Fonseca and Taylor, which are made by the same winemaker, David Guimaraens. All agree, however, that both Ports are towering examples of what Port can be when it is very, very good. The ’03 Taylor will be remembered for its massive tannins, albeit on the ripe, mature side. Despite the tannin load, this Port is remarkably well balanced in its youth. It’s not as generous on the palate at the moment as the Fonseca, but over time the layered complexity and stunning quality of the fruit from 2003 will be evident. Rating: 97 Dow’s 2003 Vintage Porto, Portugal ($80) – Another massive, inky ’03 that is rich and powerful, spicy, with a strong essence of licorice, plum, black fruits and a subtle floral note that will most likely disappear with some bottle age. This Port is a marvel texturally, with long, ripe tannins and a finish that doesn’t quit. All in all, a blockbuster for Dow’s. Rating: 96 Graham’s 2003 Vintage Porto, Portugal ($100) – The Graham’s style has always emphasized finesse, and that is true even in this extremely unusual vintage that generated wines of extraordinary power. The Graham’s ’03 is plummy and spicy, shows nuances of licorice and chocolate and silky tannins. A real charmer. Rating: 96 Smith Woodhouse 2003 Vintage Porto, Portugal ($60) – Perhaps the sleeper of the vintage, this Smith Woodhouse was the most floral of the Ports I tasted, but that by no means indicates it was delicate. On the contrary, this is a powerhouse with plenty of complexity, particularly a dusky earth note and a hint of chocolate. Abundant tannins are mature and smooth. Rating: 95 Sandeman 2003 Vintage Porto, Portugal ($60) – Sandeman is another house that eschews power for finesse and that remains true in ’03, though the color and depth by no means shortchange the aficionado. This is a remarkably well balanced vintage Port in its youth, with ample tannin and fruit for the long haul. Similar to the Smith Woodhouse in terms of floral aromas on the nose. Rating: 94 Croft 2003 Vintage Porto, Portugal ($72) – Purchased by the Fladgate partnership four years ago, Croft has been on an ambitious program of overhaul and renewal that is evidenced in the ’03 vintage. The fruit is vivid and voluptuous, the tannins are fine and there is a lovely spice component. A superb effort from Croft. Rating: 92 Delaforce 2003 Vintage Porto, Portugal ($58) – Stylistically very different than other Ports from the vintage, Deleforce is beautifully made and extremely well balanced though not as rich as some other from the vintage. Somewhat spicy and showing the aroma of licorice that is a key complexity in top-notch vintage Port. Rating: 90 WINE FINDS - DECEMBER 19, 2005: Taittinger 1995 Comtes de Champagne, France ($140) – The finesse and creamy texture of this blanc de blancs tetes de cuvee tend to overshadow the fact it is a Champagne with superb depth. Rating: 96 Perrier Jouet 1998 Fleur de Champagne, France ($130) – Perrier Jouet has always been one of the top houses of Champagne, though the upper echelon of Champagne always appeared to be out of reach. That’s all changed in the past decade with remarkable improvements in the entire lineup of PJ cuvees, but none more so than in the Fleur de Champagne. This is one tetes de cuvee that’s now better than ever. The 1998 vintage in Champagne doesn’t smack of greatness, but Perrier Jouet nevertheless produced an exceptional Fleur de Champagne. Rating: 94 Louis Roederer 1997 Brut, France ($71) – Although 1997 is a somewhat overlooked vintage because it comes on the heels of the fabulous 1995 and 1996 vintages, Roederer’s pinot noir-based vintage Champagne from the ’97 harvest keep pace nicely with the ’95 and ’96. Rating: 94 Taittinger 1999 Comtes de Champagne Rose, France ($200) – With outstanding power and complexity, Taittinger’s tetes de cuvee is a beautiful match with roasted fowl and white meats. Rating: 93 Domaine Carneros 1999 Le Reve Blanc de Blanc, Carneros ($59) – Easily one of the five finest domestic sparkling wines, Le Reve combines elegance and power in ways usually only found in Champagne. Rating: 93 Champagne Mumm de Cramant, France ($61) – An unusual bottling, Mumm de Cramant is a single village (Cramant) 100 per cent grand cru, 100 percent chardonnay Champagne from the Cote des Blancs that is nothing short of dazzling. Rating: 93 Champagne Deutz Brut Classic, France ($49) – Deutz is the quiet star of Champagne. Its non-vintage “Brut Classic” is a stellar full-bodied, mouth-filling bubbly that never disappoints. Rating: 91 J. Schram 1999, California ($80) – Although Schramsberg pioneered fine sparkling wine in California, it is no longer considered the leader. That doesn’t mean the venerable Napa producer has slipped, however, and the evidence, as usual, is in the bottle. J. Schram, Schramsberg’s prestige cuvee, doesn’t lack for depth and complexity. In fact, it’s among a handful of domestic sparkling wines that compete head-to-head with top-notch Champagne. Rating: 91 Domaine Carneros 2002 Brut, Carneros ($25) – This California sparkling wine house emphasizes elegance, which comes through in the 2002 vintage. Rating: 90 Iron Horse 2000 Russian Cuvee, Green Valley ($30) – There are so many outstanding cuvees to choose from in the Iron Horse arsenal, you would do well just throwing darts at the board. The Russian Cuvee, a blend of predominantly pinot noir and chardonnay, is about the least expensive and even this one is aged four years on the yeast before disgorgement. Rating: 89 Mumm Napa Blanc de Noirs, Napa Valley ($18) – Mildly complex, this well-made domestic sparkler is excellent as an aperitif or with savory appetizers. Rating: 87 Schramsberg Mirabelle Brut, California ($18) – The house wine of Schramsberg is an easy drinking sparkling aperitif that offers style and finesse without an overbearing price. Rating: 87 WINE FINDS - DECEMBER 12, 2005: Charles Heidsieck 1995 Blanc des Millenaires, France ($90) – This superb Champagne is 100 percent chardonnay, which is more rare than you might think. It’s creamy and elegant, yet with depth and power, which is the hallmark of a fabulous tetes de cuvee. In other words, it has it all. Rating: 100 Dom Perignon 1996, France ($120) – Along with the 1964 and 1962 this is probably one of the three greatest Dom Perignons ever made. The vintage was spectacular, giving wines of great richness and structure. Dom Perignon often doesn’t show as well against its rivals when it is young, but it ages magnificently, as recent tasting suggests. Rating: 99 Louis Roederer Brut Premier, France ($45) – One of the greatest of Champagne houses, Roederer’s tetes de cuvee, Cristal, is one of the most sought after Champagnes (and also one of the most expensive). Its non-vintage brut, Brut Premier, is no shabby second cousin, though, and commands respect among other non-vintage brut Champagnes. It’s powerful and complex and can hold up to aging in a good cellar, as well. Rating: 93 Perrier Jouet Grand Brut, France ($45) – Perrier Jouet once upon a time made its Grand Brut in an austere style with piercing acidity, but in recent years has evolved away from that. The modern PJ Grand Brut is more generous and pleasing on the palate and far more complex than it was a decade ago. It is now among the finest of this genre of Champagne and, thankfully, it’s popular with restaurateurs and thus easy to find. Rating: 92 Taittinger Brut La Francaise, France ($35) – Invariably my selection at my favorite Left Bank bistros in Paris, Taittinger’s Brut La Francaise delivers creamy texture, a firm backbone and uncommon depth for a non-vintage brut. Rating: 90 WINE FINDS - NOVEMBER 28, 2005: Pikes 2004 “Gill’s Farm” Viognier, Australia ($22) – Too often "New World" Viognier is made absent the concept of balance. My favorite Viogniers from the northen Rhone Valley of France, where the grape variety performs at extraordinary levels, do have ripeness and alcohol, but it's all in balance with refreshing acidity. Pikes achieves that here, showing us seductive aromas of peach and honeysuckle, exceptional viscosity and refreshing, balancing acity. Outstanding. Rating: 92 Grant Burge 2003 “Filsell” Shiraz, Australia ($30) – Fans of big-shouldered, ultra-ripe Aussie shiraz will snap up Burge's Filsell in a hurry. This vineyard-designated Shiraz