Time to haul out the ice bucket

The mercury was rising as I rolled north on Interstate 5 through California's central valley on my way to Napa. My car's digital readout had the outside temperature at 111 as I pulled into a familiar oasis, the Harris Ranch, for a late lunch and a glass of wine.

I sat at the bar and watched with anticipation as the bartender drew a glass of Robert Hall's Rhone de Robles from the Cruvinet, a wine bar delivery system that preserves wines after they've been opened.

The Cruvinet also controls the serving temperature, but to my dismay my glass of wine arrived warm. It didn't take Sherlock Holmes to figure out the problem. I ordered another glass of wine, a different wine, from the same Cruvinet. It arrived at the perfect temperature.

The usually reliable Harris Ranch had committed the same blunder that millions of wine enthusiasts and countless other restaurants make whenever cool spring days and nights give way to scorching summertime temps. Before the wine I ordered had been placed in the Cruvinet, it had been stored someplace without refrigeration.

I was unlucky enough to have ordered it before it got a chill on. The result is usually drinkable but hardly enjoyable because warm reds tend to be harsh and taste alcoholic, even if they are well balanced.

Before you blame the clueless Americans for not knowing how to care for good wine, know that the problem is much worse throughout most of the great wine producing regions of Europe. While traveling through rural France, Italy and Spain, you will face the same problem due to the lack of air conditioning in most of the small towns in the countryside.

It's not all that unusual to order a fabulous red wine only to be disappointed to find that the bottle is warm to the touch when the waiter presents it. There is a simple solution unless the bottle has been exposed to the heat for so long that the flavors have cooked.

Request an ice bucket and chill the red wine for at least 15 minutes. Taste it first so you will recognize the improvement after the temperature has been brought down, ideally into the range of 65 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit. The fruit should brighten and the harsh elements of alcohol and tannin should dissipate.

If it is a young wine but showing signs of browning at the edges, reject it immediately for it has probably baked for too long in the heat.

You can do this at home as well, even if you have the luxury of central air. Most folks don't have proper storage for wine inside the house, so storage in the garage becomes the option of last resort. Not the greatest of ideas (remember, cars with hot engines are parked there) but it happens.

If storage is an issue for you and you serve your reds too warm, invest in a cheap ice bucket. When you're in the mood for a robust red while grilling on the deck, throw that bottle of cabernet on ice.

Far from looking like the neighborhood wine rube, you'll really be a savvy wine drinker in the know. And how cool is that?

Wines for easy (on the wallet) summer sipping

I am intimately involved with an annual charity wine tasting in my city, among other things orchestrating the sale of cases of wine that have been donated to the event.

There are a number of wine aficionados who attend regularly and purchase a significant volume of wine, and I'm always curious to see what they're after. These are folks who appreciate fine wine and maintain superb cellars stocked with expensive collectibles.

Although the annual Wine & Roses sale includes its fair share of cellar-worthy wines, the theme this year seemed to be high quality everyday wines for summer: inexpensive and easy drinking white, red and rose wines that can satisfy even the most demanding palate.

With that in mind, I've identified a number of cringe-free wines of this type in the $8 to $15 price range, perfect for summer entertaining.

ROSE

Don Ernesto 2008 Vin Gris Rose, Napa Valley ($14) — Bright red-fruited aromas dominate, with a pleasingly long finish.

Red Guitar 2007 Rose Old Vine, Spain ($12) — From the Navarra region in northeast Spain that is highly regarded for its lovely rose wines.

WHITE

Ancient Peaks 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Paso Robles ($12) — A wonderful quaffer from one of the newbie wineries in the booming Paso Robles region of California's Central Coast.

Bonterra 2007 Chardonnay, Mendocino County ($14) — Made from organic grapes, Bonterra's Chardonnay is made in a fresh, mouthwatering style without too much oak.

Brancott 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand ($12) — For those who love the crisp, pungent style of New Zealand's Marlborough region, the Brancott is a classic.

Clayhouse 2008 Adobe White, Paso Robles ($14) — This budding powerhouse of a winery specializes in the Rhone grape varieties, and everything it produces has a touch of class that far exceeds the price on the bottle.

Concannon 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Central Coast ($10) — This is another easy-drinking quaffer of a sauvignon blanc from one of California's most consistent "value" wineries.

Cycles Gladiator 2008 Chardonnay, Central Coast ($10) — Monterey County's Hahn Family Wines makes this delicious chard that can compete with wine at twice the price. Juicy and luscious, without a dominant oak influence. That means it's all about the fruit.

Fetzer 2008 Valley Oaks Chardonnay ($8) — You can find this wine virtually everywhere in the United States, but despite the voluminous production numbers quality is remarkably consistent.

Husch 2008 Chenin Blanc, Mendocino ($11) — If you love birght, racy fruit this Chenin's for you.

Jacob's Creek 2008 Chardonnay, Australia ($8) — I always wonder how these Aussie wineries get such nice quality in the bottle at such a reasonable price when you know the shipping costs from Australia have to be dicey these days.

Little Black Dress 2007 Pinot Grigio, Italy ($13) — OK, it's a goofy name with a goofy looking bottle.
Don't be deceived, the wine is first-rate.

Matua Valley 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand ($13) — Might well be the greatest value in New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

Montecillo 2008 Albarino 'Verdamar,' Spain ($14) — From Spain's Rias Baixas district, this Albarino is made by the great Rioja house of Montecillo, and the quality shows.

Tapena 2007 Verdejo, Spain ($10) — Although the great Verdejos of Spain are typically found in Rueda, there is a growing movement to plant this exceptional grape variety throughout Spain. This one's from the Tierra de Castilla in the La Mancha region of Central Spain and it's a winner at the price.

LIGHT RED

Angove's 2007 Shiraz-Viognier, Australia ($11) — This is a typical blend in France's Cote Rotie, but Angove's version is lighter and much more accessible when young.

Banfi 2006 Centine, Italy ($13) — It would be a stretch to call this a Super Tuscan because it's meant to be a light quaffing wine. Mission accomplished. So maybe we'll call it a baby super Tuscan.

Dancing Bull 2007 Zinfandel, California ($10) — Zins are "light" in the sense that they're generally not over-oaked, and place an emphasis on purity of fruit. Dancing Bull is in fact a lighter style in zin, but with delicious flavors that work nicely with barbecued meats.

Five Rivers 2007 Pinot Noir, California ($14) — Pinot noir is tricky and good pinot at a low price is even more of a challenge, but Five Rivers is more than up to the test.

Hayman & Hill 2007 Reserve Selection Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands ($15) — I wasn't overly impressed when this winery made its debut several years back, but it appears to have hit its stride and consistently delivers exceptional quality in this price range.

Kenwood 2006 Zinfandel, Sonoma County ($14) — I've been doing this a long time and can honestly say I've never tasted a bad wine from Kenwood. This Sonoma winery makes a number of high-end, expensive wines, but also excels at this price point.

Stoneleigh 2007 Pinot Noir, New Zealand ($15) — There's a lot more to New Zealand wine than sauvignon blanc, and this one comes in from the fashionable Marlborough district at an attractive price.

Trinity Oaks 2007 Pinot Noir, California ($8) — This wine's made by the Trinchero family of Sutter Home fame and they manage to achieve a number of economies of scale due to the size of their operation. But they always have an eye on quality and there may not be a better $8 Pinot on the planet.

Vaza 2004 Rioja Crianza, Spain ($15) — The modest price of Rioja continues to amaze me. This Crianza is a beauty and perfect for summer barbecues.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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